Brief History Corsets have existed in earlier forms as far back as 1600 BC, when Cretan women wore heavy rings around their waists. Early corsets were functional, used to support the waist and back. Gradually, corsets became increasingly more fashionable in the mid 1700's AD. They reached their vogue peak at the turn of the century, and became a fundamental part of woman's apparel, until their decline in the 1920's, when they were replaced by an under garment similar to our modern day camisole and bloomers.

During the Renaissance, women endured increasingly restrictive garments, with the long cone-shaped corset that reached below the waist in a V and forced the breasts up above the top. Emphasis was on modifying or distorting the female form including the use of elaborate metal cages and crinolines used to artificially shape skirts. The wearing of corsets and hoops became an offense against the church, and was thought to be 'deceitful' in Spain in 1477.

It was during the nineteenth century that corsetry was most widely practiced, used by children and men as well. During this era, corsetry was used to sculpt the female torso into a slender hourglass silhouette , and 'tight-waisting' became a form of body modification. The 'waspie' or 'wasp waist' emerged, and women competed for the smallest waist, with usual measurements from 20 to 22 inches, but some reportedly as small as 12 inches. The development of 'wasp waist' fetishism became quite acceptable and small waists and corsetry were regarded as a symbol of feminine beauty, youth and fertility. Complicated lacing apparatuses were invented, and hung from the ceiling, consisting of winches for winding up laces, that must have been remarkably similar in appearance to the type of bondage and suspension contraptions used today. After World War I (1914-1919), women led a revolt against social and political restrictions, and the corset disappeared for a period of time.


Shrinking Violet

During the nineteenth century woman were considered to be the weaker sex. This was not only due to woman's physical size, but because they were thought to have a fainthearted demeanor, were prone to illness and unable to deal with the slightest quandary, often fainting 'dead away' during the manifestation of any crisis. This was due to the fact that women had been limiting their lung capacity for ages by cramming and diminishing their internal organs, including their lungs, into a tightly corseted vessel, prohibiting the supply of blood and oxygen to the brain. The use of smelling salts were fashionable during this era, when image was everything, and harmful practises such as 'blood-letting'-to aquire an anemic pallor-were endured.

Fabrication

Just about every type of material and fabric has gone into the construction of corsets. Linen was often used in the original corsets, stiffened by paste, with the laces strengthened to constrict the female body into a smooth straight line. Eventually, harder materials were inserted into the fabric to aid with additional support and contouring, such as boning (metal stays replaced eventually by whalebone) used lengthwise, and the busk that was slipped into a front pocket to achieve the linear front. Busks were usually constructed from a piece of wood, bone, ivory or silver, with the most primitive one known to be made of iron, dating back to 1556. The bone and ivory busks were usually elaborately decorated with scrimshaw designs, and it was fashionable for ladies to pull them out of their corsets to fan themselves. Some were even shaped into daggers, and carried in the corset as weapons to ward off unwanted advances from gentlemen. Another common practice was for a gentleman to sport a ladies busk lace around his arm, to show her affections.


Iron Maiden

Metal corsets were invented by Catherine de Medeci, the queen of France from 1547 to 1549. These uncomfortable contraptions looked more like an implement of torture, than something to be worn. They consisted of four plates, hinged at the sides and front to allow movement, and were fastened by straps and buckles, and lined inside with velvet. Whether they were fashionable or used primarily of orthopedic design is unknown, but they may have been worn as an ornamental symbol of status at court, similar to that of a knight's armor.

Contemporary Vogue The corset became increasingly popular in both mainstream fashion and with fetish enthusiasts in recent generations. Perhaps first inspired by cult pin-up model Betty Page, the corset and girdle emerged as the desirable 'bedroom' image for woman in of 50's to aspire to. Later, in the 80's, with Madonna's 'trailer trash, material girl' look and the punk generation's under- ground street-wear, corsets and bras gained social acceptability, and achieved an urban a la mode following. French designer, Jean Paul Gaultier further influenced the fashion with his 1988 Spring collection, that featured corsets and bras as outer-wear. The corset was not only for courtesans anymore, but now became customary for the general public.

Prominent designers have once again begun to re-invent this nostalgic undergarment in various forms. Their fabrics vary from leather, latex, hard rubber, chain mail, and various metals, to cotton, brocade, silk, satin, velvet and lace. Some of these fabrics are meant to inspire the commanding figure of a dominitrix, while others are rich and sensual and have a very 'touchable' look to them. The styles range from full-body dresses that enclose the form from chest to calf, to straight Victorian style ones that cover the breasts and heart-shaped ones that create a visual lure to the cleavage, to short bustiers that reveal the stomach and inverted V's that lift and expose the breasts, to cinch waist belts of leather or metal, neck corsets, gauntlets, and penis 'straitjackets'. The possibilities are endless, offering a wide variety to suit everyone's unique personal style.


Corsetry in Eroticism

Women's role was once said to 'adorn and beautify' the family home. Today, women have come a long way towards changing the status quo, and have proved they are more than just plain sex objects. Woman now feel more confident in their femininity and sexuality, and no longer need to dress in the masculine power suits of the '80's to be taken seriously. Feminine fashions have once more returned, inspiring confidence and sexuality, and allowing women the freedom of choice.

Corsets and the art of corsetry have become a symbol of eroticism. They mold the body into a desirable feminine physique, by flattening the stomach, raising and shaping the breasts, rounding the hips, and straightening the posture to lengthen and curve the body in a sexually provocative manner. Corsets are the main choice for costuming in any adult movie, because they are sexy and seductive. Even fleshy bodies can be molded into the 'perfect' female form with them, giving a slimming effect. Corsets have recently become more fashionable with men as well. With shock-rocker Marilyn Manson strutting on stage in his leather corset and tightlacer's like Pearl, men have the alternative of using corsetry to feminize their masculine appearance.


Corsetry in Bondage

Corsets were once said to mold character as well as form, instilling 'a properly submissive attitude'. In the practice of BDSM lifestyles, both dommes and submissives use corsets for different purposes. For the domme, it acts like an exterior armor, giving the wearer confidence and an powerful demeanor. Yet, it is still seductive, having the appearance of a provocative package that hints of the contents, inviting the observer to look, but they are not allowed to touch. This conflict of emotions, creates anticipation, like that of a child longing for Christmas morning. For the submissive, the corset is a symbol of bondage, and confinement in the form of punishment. It restricts natural movements forcing them exhibit themselves in a provocative manner, instilling a conscious awareness of their predicament. And, of course, it is seductively revealing, objectifying them sexually and implying ownership.


Precautions

I do not pretend to be an authority on corsetry or 'small-waisting'. From various reading, I have found that corsetry as a form of body modifcation, should not be practised without caution. The potential for danger is significant, and people interested in persuing corsetry for modification purposes, should do so with the support and knowledge of experts in this field. 'Small-waisting' is demanding, requiring extreme methods and extensive periods of time to produce any considerable reduction, let alone achieve 'wasp waist' effect. I do not support nor dispute the physical health effects of 'small-waisting' as a practise, as I have no personal experience with it myself. Following this article, is a list of many resources on corsetry and 'small-waisting' on the internet, if you are interested in finding out more about this practise.

Resources:

Long Island Staylace Association (lots of info)
Romantasy (a retail site with info and support for corsetiers)
Absinthe and Old Lace (retail site that offers cautions on small-waisting)



Retail:

Wasp Creations
Leather Creations/Primitive Leather
Dark Garden

About the Photographer:

Steve Diet Goedde is a self-taught erotic photographer who has made a name for himself by going against the traditional cliches of erotic photography. While most erotic photographers explore nude landscapes, Goedde prefers to survey the sensual appeal of fetishism. While lovingly documenting such textures as latex, PVC, and leather, Goedde manages to remind us that there are indeed people under the clothing. In addition to the high degree of eroticism, a sense of individuality and warmth seep through his portraits and settings. His first hardcover retrospective "The Beauty of Fetish" was released last year by renowned Swiss publisher Edition Stemmle. The book just won Best Art/Photography Book of 1999 in the Annual Firecracker Alternative Book Awards.

Look for more of Steve's work in a future issue of Blood Moon zine. In the mean time, take a look at more of his work at his personal site where you can purchase his prints: www.stevedietgoedde.com.